Russian Blue Cats Krasavitsa Cattery SA



Breed Information

  1. What is unique about Russian Cats?

    Probably mainly their character - the confident, calm and friendly nature, their good manners, and their elegant appearance. Quite unique is also the soft, plush 'double coat' and the fact that they are "hypoallergenic" cats. 

  2. What colours can Russian cats have?

    Russian are best known and most popular in the colour Blue, whcih is a special shade of a silvery Grey. This colour is recognised as their original colour world-wide. However, Russians also come in pure White and in glossy pure Black.  These colours were achieved by crossing the Russians with other cat breeds long time ago, but they have meanwhile been pure-bred for generations and are recognised at Australian cat shows. Especially the White Russians are interesting for their special genetic features: They are even less allergenic than the Blues and they are not susceptible to blindness and deafness as most other purely white cats are. Further, they are extremely elegant, beautiful cats!

  3. Are Russians susceptible to particular diseases?

    Thanks to their very natural shape of face and body and to the excellent co-operation among Russian breeders in Australia who avoid inbreeding, mix genetic material skilfully and breed with the best of the best cats only, Russian cats do not have any breed-specific problems.

  4. What is the history and origin of this breed?

    This question is answered very well on several Internet websites. See, for example, at:

    These and similar links will certainly answer almost all the other questions you may have!

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Health Care

  1. Are there any specific health problems?

    Our own Russian cats - of the Krasavitsa Cattery in Aldinga Beach south of Adelaide - have never had any serious health issues yet - knock on wood! 

    Our cats are fit, big and strong, and enjoy excellent, stable health, physically as well as mentally and emotionally. Compared to cats of other breeds which I used to have in previous times, as well as domestic moggies, I would say that Russians have the most resilient and stable health in cats. 

    However, little baby kittens are very tender and can get sick very easily. Therefore breeding is not suitable for everybody, as it can be very distressing - especially for young children - if baby kittens die or have to be put down. 

    It can happen that kittens just fail gaining weight and wane for no obvious reason - not even the vets can tell why. The most frequent problem in young kittens is conjunctivitis, followed by light flu symptoms such as sneezing and coughing; also diarrhoea may occur for many different causes. As such "children's diseases" come up mostly in the first three months, while the immune system is developing, it is indeed a good idea to wait for your kitten until it is at least 12 weeks old.

    In the Krasavitsa cattery, we seek medical help immediately when we encounter a sign of a disease or infection. All our adult cats are  vaccinated, and the kittens are vaccinated and vet-checked at least 2 times befeore they leave to new homes.

    From my own experience I can say that the Russians from 12 weeks of age up are an extremely healthy breed.

  2. What do I need to do to keep my Russian Cat healthy?

    Russian cats don't have any breed-specific requirements. Basically, they only need all the things that every other cat needs, too:

    (1) Good quality food and water; (2) a clean, dry, secure resting place protected from the environtal conditions such as wind, rain, sun, cold, etc.; (3) a hygienic toilet place; (4) the annual vet check and vaccination, and (5) lots of love, attention and cuddles.

    In addition to this, they - as all other cats, too - will do well if they get some occasional brushing or bathing, get their nails clipped and their ears cleaned, and get raw bones to clean their teeth. 

  3. Dental Care - How do I clean my cat's teeth?

    Brushing: Although tooth pastes and tooth brushes as well as rubber fingerlings are available for cats, I believe that their use is only advisable in an extremely sick cat who can no longer chew on bones. The natural and healthiest way for cats (and by the way, also for humans) to clean their teeth by eating the right food:

    At least once a week, every cat should get a raw chicken neck, wing or drumstick, or some other raw bone (lamb chop, beef or pork spare rib, turkey wing etc.) to rub any plaque off the teeth. (For humans, a daily apply, carrot or muesli will do the same job.) This is the type of tooth care that every cat loves and enjoys, and it is highly effective! Also many dry foods, especially those with the word "Oral" on the package, do a good job.

    Tartar: Some breeders and vets consider it necessary, particularly in older cats, to remove tartar from the teeth. You can learn from your vet or breeder to do it yourself; however, the opinions on whether this is or is not necessary are divided. What causes caries and parodontosis and the resulting tooth loss, is not the tartar (a dark layer covering mainly the base of the tooth), but the bacteria which may live or may not live underneath. Some people say that the tartar cover actually protects the tooth from such intruders.

    The place where most bacteria are found and prosper are, however, the interdental spaces (the gaps and hollow cavities between the teeth), especially if they are filled up with food. Toothbrushes are usually not able to remove such food residues completely (neither in animals nor in humans).

    Therefore, if you want to do something really valuable for the care of (your and) your cat's teeth, use dental floss or, even much better, those miniature 'bottle brushes' called "Solo Stix" which will be soon available in my online shop (or give me a call to get them straight away; I have been using them for years and always have some stock. I will start to market them online as soon as the books by the German dentist who invented them and whose works I have translated, will be printed and available on the Australian market.) It may take a bit of effort to get your cat used to it, but it will be certainly better tolerated than tooth brushing!

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Prices and Conditions of Sale

  1. At what age do you sell the kittens?

    We usually hand kittens over to their new homes between 12 and 16 weeks of age. According to the Cat Governing Council's Code of Ethics for breeders, the kittens must be at least 12 weeks of age when sold, and that is good so. Before that, they still need their mother and the play with their siblings, so they can develop a healthy self-esteem, learn to behave like real cats and get well socialised with different people and other animals with the support of their breeder. They also need this time to complete their initial vaccination cycle and to get desexed, which we have usually done at 11-12 weeks of age. Girls will need another 2 weeks recovery time after that; we won't pass them over to their new homes until their stitches are removed in order to avoid stress and to give them the quiet recovery time after their surgery. Boys are usually fine within hours after casting; for them it is a much simpler operation.

    However, you can reserve a kitten already much earlier against the payment of a deposit.

  2. How much do Russian kittens cost?

    Kittens without any faults from registered breeders cost between $1,000 and $1,200 - these prices are about the same all over Australia. This usually includes pedigree papers, parasite prevention, one  or two vaccinations and microchipping. Some breeders also include desexing. These vet services alone would cost you about $400 if you had to organise them yourself.

    For kittens which have some sort of 'fault', the prices are usually negotiable. Faults may be a wrong eye colour, white spots or tiger stripes in the coat, undersize and/or underweight, damages after injuries, behavioral issues or health problems. Good breeders will explain to you any such problems if they are aware of them, and will negotiate a lower price.

    Adult desexed cats, such as retired breeding cats, may be placed in good forever homes for as little as $200, just to cover a portion of their vet costs and/or the transport. 

    If you do not buy your cat or kitten from a registered breeder you may end up with a mix-bred moggie cat who just happens to be grey (or white or black if you are after a White or Black Russian). Only if you can view certified pedigeees of both parents you can be sure that their offspring is a purebred Russian. 

    When buying a kitten, or even when getting a cat or kitten for free, please make sure that you are financially able to provide appropriate food and litter (count in about $500 per year per cat) and vet care (which can amount to several thousand dollars if something bd happens), as well as a safe environment (secured home or outdoor run etc). Also, count in possible pet sitter or cat boarding costs when you travel! 

  3. Do the kittens come with a health and return guarantee?

    Our kittens are always vet-checked short before hand-over, and we give them to new homes only if they are in excellent health. Or, if there is a problem, we will speak frankly about it and discuss various options with you. The kittens are also wormed (with Troy, Drontal or Milbemax) and get a flea prevention treatment (we use Frontline spray or Revolution in the neck), and they get their nails clipped and their ears cleaned before handover, so they should be in a perfect condition. However, should a serious health problem come up within 2 weeks after handover, we may cover or share necessary vet costs with you. Please contact me BEFORE you go to the vet, as I will not pay any unnecessary or unduly high vet bills and may insist that you go to a particular vet of my choice. Please note that, for example, a light cold or short-term diarrhoea are not considered a serious health problem. They often occur due to stress after the change of environment and usually abide within a couple of days without requiring medical treatment.

    I do offer a full return guarantee and will refund your money in full, if you return the kitten to us within 4 weeks time for whatever reason. It may just not fit into your family, or some unexpected problem may come up, and we will understand. However, you are responsible to cover the transport cost. If you return the kitten or cat at a later point in time, we will refund only a portion of the original purchase price, or not give any refund at all, as the case may be, as older kittens and especially adult cats are much harder to find good homes for. You will certainly understand.  However, we will always either take the cat back or help you to find a suitable home for her, should any problem occur.

  4. What if I would like to breed? Can I have a kitten undesexed?

    You need to advise me of your wish to breed well beforehand, and you will have to be a member of or register as a breeder with an established cat breeders' association. If I have kittens suitable for breeding, I will be happy to arrange the appropriate papers for this cat. If you are not an experienced breeder yet we will need to have a longer conversation about your future plans, to ensure that you learn and/or know everything you need. Breeding cats can be a very demanding hobby!

  5. Can I have a kitten unvaccinated and not microchipped?

    No. Vaccinations are required by our breeding association's Code of Ethics. Microchipping is very important to me personally and I will have it done for the safety of the cat - but also to protect you as the new owner. As Russian Cats can look very similar to each other, a clear identification of a lost or stolen Russian cat, or of a cat hit by a car etc. is almost impossible. Only the microchip number can reliably link the cat to you as its owner and/or to me as its breeder, and prove the cat's identity.

  6. Pre- and after-sales support

    Before hand-over of the kitten, I will send you an information file or leaflet to let you know about the food and litter which the kitten is used to, what the daily routine is, and similar particularities. This will include a 'shopping list' for you to make sure that everything is well prepared for the kitten's arrival.

    When you get your kitten, I usually add a generic cat care booklet for further education. Some papers such as the vaccination certificate and microchipping certificate are usually handed over together with the kitten; some others, such as a registration certificte or a pedigee certified by the club (if requested) may take a few more weeks to obtain. 

    If you have any questions or need any help, you will always be welcome to contact me for advice, even long after the sale. I offer life-long support to you and your cat. There are also some very helpful online cat forums in which I regularly participate, and I recommend you join them, too. 

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